Pop, Fizz, Clink, Go
A new favorite stay, a trio of bucket list trips, and shopping for summer party season and beyond
June is a strange month in Los Angeles. As someone who spent most of their life on the east coast, where June unfurls like this hard-earned gift after a slog of muddy early spring and everyone is outside as much as possible and feeling frisky about it, the Los Angeles version feels like a bait and switch. I can never quite get over that it is not the most beautiful time of year here, a place which is usually so beautiful all the time. A city of microclimates becomes somehow exponentially more so. “June gloom” is what they call it—and “May gray” before that—and it’s a situation as lame as that: the day begins with these thickly misty blahs of mornings that extend into the afternoon, only to burn off and reveal these gorgeous sun-drenched teases of afternoons that make you almost forget the first part of the day. The deeper into the month we get, the better it gets, at least in my corner of the canyon, but in the meantime, I’ve found that the best way to combat the whole thing has been to travel— a lot.
I spent a few weeks last month in Italy with friends (Rome, Venice; eating, drinking, seeing art, being merry) came back and spent the better part of a week in a jet lagged fugue state (all the better to binge watch Hacks, the latest season of which I very much enjoyed), and then I jumped back on a plane to head to Elk, California at the invitation of Krug. The reason? Today marks the launch of three incredibly well-curated culinary-driven, Krug-fueled itineraries with Indagare at three of the country’s best hotels: Harbor House Inn (October 17-20) in California, Twin Farms (November 11-14) in Vermont, and Blackberry Farm (December 5-8) in Tennessee. If you like best-in-the-world food and fabulous wines in three of America’s most glorious natural settings, well, hop to it!
Personally I would give a limb (or more realistically, an inessential organ [appendix?]) to do all three. I haven’t been to Twin Farms yet but it’s been on my list for ever; for the other two I can vouch they are completely wonderful bucket list perfection. And it’s not all—or not just—indulgence: you also participate in activities led by specialist, expert hosts, so you feel like you’re doing something. (Experiences! Those things we’re all really looking for when we pack a bag and hit the road.) And, of course, you drink a lot of really good champagne in what I’ll bet is really good—or just extremely discerning—company. I mean, I always like meeting other people with great taste. (Speaking of, this perfect summer beach cardigan, below, is begging to come with you on your seaside travels. It would look aces over a bikini in Montauk at the end of the day, deckside with shorts, or over a slipdress anywhere coastal for cocktail hour. Trust me.)
But back to Elk. Elk is one of those blink-and-you’ll-miss-it towns carved out along the Northern California coastline 150 miles north of San Francisco, all coastal pines and ocean cliffs, and that in itself would be reason enough to visit, but what Chef Matthew Kammerer has done there is nothing short of remarkable. Everything that comes out of his masterful, two Michelin (and one Green Michelin) starred kitchen is legitimately hyper-local. (I say “legitimately” as these terms get tossed around a lot, often undeservedly, but they’ve found their platonic ideal here.)
Harbor House’s ingredients come from the property's immediate environment, which includes their own gardens, which ramble down the property towards the beach, or are harvested at their biodynamic farm, or retrieved from their cattle ranch or local fishermen. If you sit outside for long enough you’ll see members of the kitchen staff rifling through the greenery for various elements—a branch of cyprus with which to smoke some beef; a fistfull of marigold to clap into ice cream for dessert—for that evening’s feast. Even the salt they use is dehydrated from the waves that lap the rocky beach below.
They do a tasting menu that changes daily depending on the ingredients, which keeps everyone in the kitchen on their toes (and, likely, their A-game), and it’s the kind of food—light, clever, delicious, unmistakably Californian—that you could just eat forever, and unlike some other Michelin tasting menus, you don’t want to curl up and die immediately after (or let’s be honest, tap out during). The 11 rooms and cottages are laid-back and lovely, with comfortable furniture and panoramic views of the green hills and bright blue ocean; the staff is tuned-in attentive-but-not-oppressive perfection. We had lunch set up on the beach one day, and all I could think about was how much I wanted to come back with everyone I loved. Hopefully I will. See you there?
Other news! The Vogue Global Spa Guide is finally here! It’s a hard job, sampling some of the world’s best retreats, but you know, someone’s gotta do it. You can read my reviews for the Golden Door, Sensei Lanai, Mii Amo, Paradero, and Sensei Porcupine Creek, as well as others from other Vogue contributors around the globe. It’s really fun and extremely helpful for the luxury-wellness-inclined, if I say so myself. (If you just want the top 10, those are here.) Let me know what you think and if you want more in depth intel or recommendations. The day I get tired of talking about these places is the day I hang it all up for good (and probably move to Elk).
Also, if you have a House & Garden UK subscription or a functioning newsstand near you you can read a short piece I wrote about Chateau Marmont in the July issue. (TL;DR version: the best way to keep a place iconic is not unike aging gracefully in any arena—don’t fuck with it too much.)
I officially know it’s summer when my group chats begin clamoring for the best poolside playlists. Funny enough, I have one! Well, I don’t, but this cute little site Poolsuite does. For all your summer vibey chill out needs.
I came across these kaftan-like silk dresses at the perfectly curated hotel boutique at the divine El Fenn in Marrakech years ago, and sent the designer a DM to tell her how much I liked them. I then ordered like five more from her directly. Now that she’s launched a website, so can you! They’re easy to pack, wear, and get all sorts of compliments on. You’ll feel like Talitha Getty all summer long. You’re welcome.
More silk! Silk Laundry has arrived in L.A. I visited the store on Melrose and went to a cocktail in their honor last night, and I have to say, these are the kind of clothes you will wear forever. A good reminder that it’s worth investing in one actually well-made slip dress, rather than buying a million disposable ones. Plus the colors and prints are beautiful, and there’s also gorgeous little cardigans, breezy silk pants and shirts, and easy sexy swingy jersey dresses that make you feel like Pina Bausch. Endorse! This one especially feels perfect for any upcoming summer weddings.
Also perfect for a smattering of different summer parties: Elegant and easy ultra-flattering lacy perfection from Prada. Red hot, clingy, cool a la Jacquemus. A Simon Miller sheath in the most perfect shade of summer suntan-accenting blue. This, by Carolina Herrera is just the most classic. Ultra-romantic rosettes from Rodarte made for something significant and al fresco. Ibiza bound? Bring this. This one is more St. Tropez to me, but I’m going to wear it to something here once it’s hot enough. And this little sexy, simple, will work across multiple seasons with a cardigan cinch of a thing? Check, check, check.
Additionally, I am seriously coveting these Tory Burch sandals. How it is that I have too many pairs of sandals and yet also certainly too few? It’s a mystery!
And how perfect is this stripey top and trouser? I’ll answer: extremely.
This is a very good short story (Granta).
My friend Bob Sullivan has the kind of infinite patience and knack for reporting that editors dream of. (I did, when I occasionally edited him back in the day for Vogue: this excellent and regrettably still relevant piece, digging into the relatively recent notion of “borders” springs to mind.) He has a new book out, Double Exposure, which is great for photography fans, American history buffs, deep thinkers, and those who like to look like deep thinkers while lying resplendent on their beach towels. (What! It’s a great looking cover!)
Ren Faire (Max): Succession meets Uncut Gems meets Medieval Times? I ate it up. Watch it and let me know what you think?
Moon Juice teamed up with Organic Oren for a few days of insanely good meal delivery to celebrate their line of Dusts. (I live on Ting, Magnesi-Om, and have now added Mini Dew to the rotation.) I was delighted: Organic Oren is excellent. If you live in L.A. and want a break from cooking/ thinking about procuring your own food, as I suspect we all do at this time of year—I couldn’t recommend it more highly.
Okay! That’s all from me for the moment. Thank you, as always, for being here. I whacked a bunch of mock orange branches into my big tulip vase and they’re blooming: nothing is making me quite as happy. Hoping that you have some similar little delights going on. Let me know what they are, if you feel like it. I always love to hear from you. More soon. XO